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The crowning glory is the Baiterek. It is supposed to be a soaring sheaf of wheat, on top of which lies the golden egg of the mythical roc bird. Many call it "the lollipop". One opposition official was less charitable. "It's the world's biggest penis extension," he said.
"I think if it really offends you, you can cover it up," says Lemke. "I mean, we all had sex ed. We know what a penis looks like. It's really not that offensive."