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Our honeymoon took us to Istria, where we had a miserable day from HELL that involved cartoon maps, closed tourist offices, getting lost on single-lane farm tracks, Communist-era "health spa" baths featuring radioactive water and very solid nurses in polyester smocks and creaky iron-grate elevators; snooty waiters suggesting we return the following day for the rare priviledge of eating at their restaurant (as the 2 tour busses disgorged in the background), an illegal agri-tourizam, then climbing a thousand stone stairs in 90 degree heat and humidity, and finally, an ancient hilltop city, where we watched the sun set in a million shades of pink and orange over the valley below, enjoying a glass of cold white wine and a plate of risotto garnished heavily with matchstick-size chunks of truffle.