I hate it when the NY Times, or anyone else. . . prints a story about one of my favorite places.
→[More:]. . .Palenque. I can't put into words, how magical this place is.
I was fortunate to be able to stay at Hotel de las Ruinas, which is just down the hill from the ruins, but is now closed and used by employees of the site. It was great to just get up in the morning (a number of mornings) and walk up the road and be there without having to get a collectivo from town.
The site is only a third excavated, so you can go into the hills, on foot trails and come up on these stone walls that are totally overgrown.
Hard place to get to, but very very worth it.