chefs lowered the sugar level in its traditional pastries like chocolate doughnuts to appeal to the Chinese, who prefer their desserts less sweet than Americans do.
I live on the edge of Atlanta's Chinatown-type district, and one of the many advantages of it is access to a half-dozen different Chinese bakeries right in the neighborhood. I LOVE cookies and pastries from those places. They're just barely sweet, as the article says, and a lot of them (esp. the cookies) have an awesome toasty flavor. Really great with hot tea or coffee.