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It was indeed. And it was somewhere in an early chapter of that same book that I decided I thought the guy was a class A asshole.
What did it? The lengthy description of how his father condescendingly lectured every waitress on how to make a cafe au lait. This was told as if it were an amusing character portrait - that fussy dad! That dumb waitress! Haha! - but I couldn't see it from any other point of view than that of the waitress, who was probably ready to throw a hot, very hot, cup of coffee, containing an equal amount of hot, very hot, steamed (not boiled!) milk right into the lap of this petty, passive-aggressive bombast.
And then I couldn't really see Gopnik as anything but an insecure kid still trying to impress his authoritarian, college-prof daddy.
I didn't like P to the M, but he curated (or wrote about, or something, I forget) an art show I like (here's the book--if you can get it through a library or otherwise look at it for free, it's highly recommended).