If you want clean, square cuts and you have little or no experience with a miter box, then you want something electric. I grew up with a full wood shop and I used a jigsaw for most everything. A couple clamps and a straight edge with a jigsaw will give you a square cut about 90% of the time.

Hmm.

Manual saw or electric? The reason someone probably mentioned "miter" is because you're mentioning cutting ends sqare and also because if you want to cut legs off you want them cut at a right angle. Here is an electric "miter saw", basically a circular saw in its own contraption that allows you to cut definitive angles. Here is the cheap (under $10) manual version, a plastic box into which you insert a handsaw (often included in the price), allowing you to cut a couple of versions of 45° and 90° angles. Both are mainly made to cut 2x4s.

It's tough to imagine you fitting various sizes of driftwood into either of those, and possibly ditto for your bench depending on its size.

Hmm. Tough question, mostly because there are so many types of saws. Unfortunately a Google image search for "saw" shows you mostly the handiwork of this guy instead of a good variety of actual saws.

A saw with no type of miter attachment is prob'ly more your thing, maybe something similar to a larger version of a jigsaw (whose name I cannot remember at the mo').

Maybe go to your local Lowe's/DIY place and get lost in the tool section for a while? I love fixing and making things too, and I could spend hours (if I had them) looking at all the niftiness in the "hardware store".

Good luck and have fun!

A note on electric miters: they generally use belt drives, and replacement belts can not only be pricey but difficult to replace without the right tools.

The electric miter looks crazy fancy/expensive for me. I think I could handle the logic/measurements of a miter box, but that wouldn't fit everything I'm trying to saw , would it? It looks like you have to get your piece of work into that channel. And yeah, I kind of prefer manual tools except where that doesn't make sense (drill, belt sander).

If you want to stay with hand tools, then you will want a rip saw, a good long one. Get a couple big clamps and use some cushioning material to hold your piece solidly in place. Use long strokes. A good bit of practice will pay off in the long run.

OK. I bet that'll work. I've used a ripsaw before, and in fact there's a bench in the basement of my apartment, so if I just got some decent clamps I will be all set. Thanks.

Yeah, this all makes sense so far. Maybe someday you'll want a jigsaw. Marc's stores usually have a variety of clamps super-cheap -- they won't last forever but they're worth the price. You might want to have a plastic miter box and saw on hand, since they're so inexpensive and eventually you'll need one. For small detail work on driftwood and such a small hacksaw is worth the $8 - $10 is costs. Look around at the hardware store. You'll find amazing things. Like, for example, if you like handtools, carry a multitool with a screwdriver and a self-tapping screw and you'll never be without a small drill.
;-)

Thanks, you guys. Now I know who to ask when I want to talk tools.

I would like a jigsaw some day but my current projects are a little chunkier, so I think the ripsaw is a place to start!

The real trick to hand tools is patience. My brother was always trying to force saws to cut more than they were meant, and he always screwed things up.

If you want to do very exacting work get a Dōzuki. A 1000 year old Japanese design. I got mine about 25 years back from Lee Valley. Back cut saws are the best for precise work.

A circular saw with some of these of various lengths (if you only want to make a short cut, you don't want to haul out a 4' one):
http://wayneofthewoods.com/circular-saw-cutting-guide.html

and perhaps one of these:
http://wayneofthewoods.com/circular-saw-crosscut-jig.html

is a tremendously useful tool.

Man, a circular saw would be badass.

A hand ripsaw is OK, but since using Japanese saws, I've come to hate western saws. Here's why: a western ripv saw (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_saw) cuts on the push stroke and it you push down too hard, the blade buckles (wub, wub, wub). It's frustrating.

Japanese saws cut on the pull which automatically keeps the blade in line. A ryoba is a nice idea as it puts rip and cross cuts blades on the same saw (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Ryoba-Saw-Medium-9-1_2-Blade-Traditional-Pattern/productinfo/499-0410/).

Myself, I have three hand saws these days, a back saw with "shark teeth" which is great for cross cut (but only up to a 4x4 if you flip in the middle), a coping saw (for very fine work), and a hacksaw for metal work.

A decent jig/saber saw is amazingly versatile. I have one that is like this and it has lasted more than 10 years so far. I've used it for coarse and fine work and unusual shapes (like coping cuts on molding).

For plain cuts, some people swear by having a decent hand circular saw. A couple saw horses, an extension cord and safety glasses and you're in business. I'm a little leery about using it as the blade can do a lot of damage and your hands are right there. It's the first choice for some jobs like trimming a door to size or rough cutting plywood.

All these saws will do the jobs that you've mentioned, some easier/safer than others. With hand saws, you need skill or time to develop skill. With power saws, you need less skill but more of an eye to safety.

By the way, careful what you get at big box stores - they are typically cheaper than other places, but many brands make specific models for stores which are cheaper, but you get what you pay for.

Bow saw? No - bow saws are for cutting logs and tree branches.

Oh, another few reasons for the jig saw - they're compact and usually come in a case about the size of a briefcase. The blades are cheap and you can put in blades suitable for fine and coarse work. About the biggest thing they can handle is a 4x4.